25 Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area (Read 9958 times)
cyclones30
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Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Feb 4th, 2020 at 3:16pm
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We're taking our first Q trip late summer/early fall. I've been reading reports and such on the B chain. My wife wants to target Sturgeon/Russell area. How's the fishing and any things to do or see while there? Campsites to note?

I know Chatterton Falls isn't far so we'd check that out I'm sure. Others? Daytrip options? Why is Scripture island named as such? I don't plan on going that far down Sturgeon unless there's a good reason. Antoine? Ram?

It looks like if water levels aren't low, the Dieux Rivieres route is the most direct. The B-chain would be if we want something different on the way in/out or water is low on the river.

Fishing or campsite info on Dore or Twin Lakes? Thanks!
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #1 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 4:41pm
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  How many days are you going for?

   How hard do you want to work?

   Do you want to move every day OR maybe basecamp in a couple of spots and day-trip?



  
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Jimbo
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #2 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 5:51pm
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Cyclones30,

Any chance you're going to CanoeCopia?  I hardly know where to start in response to your questions since that area is so rich with all sorts of pluses.  We could probably fill a few pages with information for you.  It would be easier to chat about it in person.  Also, when it comes to sharing info re: fishing (holes), etc., that info IS more freely shared in person OR via PM's.

There are two resources that I believe would be of considerable use for you, if you are not aware of them already.  So, rather than hand you fish, I'll share how I go about planning a fishing/canoeing trip:
1) Bob Beymer's book, "A Boundary Waters Fishing Guide" (it covers BOTH the BWCA and Quetico & provides detailed lists of fish species present in each lake).
2) The website PaddlePlanner.com .  Membership is cheap and the planning functionality as well as the portage & campsite reviews are pretty darned good.

Here are my short, generic responses to some of your questions:

The fishing can be quite good and there are plenty of 4 & 5 Start Campsites in the area... and PaddlePlanner will show you exactly where they are. 

Things to do?  Well, you're near the Poet Chain if you enjoy waterfalls.  It's fun to walk around Chatterton Falls and to cast a line around the spillways.  Also, on that route, you'll have a great shot at spotting wildlife, particularly moose (Deux Rivieres area) and swans (north end of Sturgeon).

Ram & Antoine (& Oliphaunt) can be good day trips and can offer excellent fishing.  However, if it has been particularly wet, you may find those short portages over to Antoine to be really nasty mud holes.  An issue of the BWJ a few years back featured a pic of a prime vintage mud hole on that very portage, in fact.  Might not be where you'd want to take your wife if it has been raining a lot.

I think when you can answer Solotripper's questions, you'll get more helpful responses. 

Re:Scripture Island, well, I've only heard "rumors" as to the derivation of its name.  As some tell it, back in the dawn of time, an Objibwe warrior who took the tribal name of "Pine Knot", went there to lay down his Commandments regarding the sacred & proper processing of wood for campfires.  As I understand, his commandments started out something like this: "THOU SHALT BURN ONLY RED PINE OF FOUR INCH DIAMETERS CUT PRECISELY INTO TWELVE INCHES LENGTHS." I don't remember the dozen or so commandments in the middle but it finished with: "AND ABOVE ALL, THOU SHALT NOT TOSS IN PINE KNOTS UNTIL THE WORD HATH BEEN GIVEN."  Yeah, he was a real stickler when it came to sacred stuff like that.

That's what I've heard, anyway, but you know how rumors go.  I suppose there's an outside chance that someone on QJ may be able to share a more pedestrian, plausible explanation re: Scripture Island....  Roll Eyes  Good luck with that one!

Later,

Jimbo   Cool

  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #3 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 6:28pm
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As I understand, his commandments started out something like this: "THOU SHALT BURN ONLY RED PINE OF FOUR INCH DIAMETERS CUT PRECISELY INTO TWELVE INCHES LENGTHS." I don't remember the dozen or so commandments in the middle but it finished with: "AND ABOVE ALL, THOU SHALT NOT TOSS IN PINE KNOTS UNTIL THE WORD HATH BEEN GIVEN."  Yeah, he was a real stickler when it came to sacred stuff like that.


   I believe that falls into one of the verses under A-R
tripper behavior.  Wink Grin Grin

  You gave good advice Jimbo. Those mudholes going into Ram/Antoine are much easier to navigate loaded for a day-trip than camping there.
  
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db
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #4 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 7:13pm
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Scripture Island, Black Robe, Dieux Rivieres... seems obvious to me.

I will add that both the Fern portage and the Chatterton Falls sightseers path were both worthy day trips with my wife. I'd recommend clockwise for a loop.
  
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Mad_Mat
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #5 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 10:28pm
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The trail (mentioned) along the river above Chatterton Falls is on the South Side - that is, to the right as you look at the falls.  It starts in a campsite, as close to the falls as you can get.  It is a nice, worthwhile hike up an old, unused portage.

The actual portage to Chatterton Lake is on the North side of the falls.  Usually good fishing near the falls, and a 1/4 mile or so above the outlet of Russell - there is good current there in shallow water.

In June, it is 50/50 odds that you could paddle all the way up the outlet (the river between Sturgeon and Russell) - if the water is too high, there is a portage on the right side, not really obvious - it goes up a slabby rock and around the rapid at the top.
Otherwise, eddy hopping from side to side works to get you up the river - no matter what, don't get turned sideways to the current.





  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #6 - Feb 4th, 2020 at 11:29pm
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In June, it is 50/50 odds that you could paddle all the way up the outlet (the river between Sturgeon and Russell) - if the water is too high, there is a portage on the right side, not really obvious - it goes up a slabby rock and around the rapid at the top.
Otherwise, eddy hopping from side to side works to get you up the river - no matter what, don't get turned sideways to the current.


  That is a very important warning M_M_ has given here.
I've been into Russell lake at least 3x. I only made it up paddling 1x and that was just barely.
I tried the other 2x times, made it to the edge of the spill-out only to be pushed back.

If you choose to try and run it I'd advise you to kneel in the canoe and build as much speed as you can, you'll need it.

  With my double paddle, it's easy to stay straight BUT unless you're confident in your paddling skills with a single paddle either alone or in tandem going backward, you're better off using that portage.

My Fubar Trip I chose the portage and by hugging the western wall was able to get up almost even with the spill-out.

You dump there, there is NO place to pull yourself and gear up on shore. High stone banks on both sides. The current and those whirlpools are going to push you and your canoe/gear unless lashed in almost about to Sturgeon Narrows  Shocked Cry Cry

  Quetico Dave told me when he was still outfitting that MORE of his clients dumped there than ANY other spot!

  That deep moving water has a lot of power behind it. Don't be deceived because it's not foaming/boiling like white water is.
  
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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #7 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 12:20am
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solotripper wrote on Feb 4th, 2020 at 4:41pm:
  How many days are you going for?

   How hard do you want to work?

   Do you want to move every day OR maybe basecamp in a couple of spots and day-trip?





Should be at least 7 days, probably 7 or 8 if I was to guess. I wish it was 25 but hopefully one of those trips will come some day.

We're willing to work if needed, 3 of us are either side of 30 and my dad is in very good shape.

We've done loops in the BW where we've moved every day but I think fishing will be more of a focus here so maybe more like moving every other day or so.
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #8 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 12:27am
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cyclones30 wrote on Feb 5th, 2020 at 12:20am:
solotripper wrote on Feb 4th, 2020 at 4:41pm:
  How many days are you going for?

   How hard do you want to work?

   Do you want to move every day OR maybe basecamp in a couple of spots and day-trip?





Should be at least 7 days, probably 7 or 8 if I was to guess. I wish it was 25 but hopefully one of those trips will come some day.

We're willing to work if needed, 3 of us are either side of 30 and my dad is in very good shape.

We've done loops in the BW where we've moved every day but I think fishing will be more of a focus here so maybe more like moving every other day or so.


  I thought it was just you and your wife. The workload spread among 4 people in decent shape gives you more options still.

  I'll PM a suggestion for a route that should be easy portage wise, but gives you plenty of time to fish.
  
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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #9 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 12:30am
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To answer some of the other questions....we'd love to be at Copia but we're usually prepping the planters and tractors by that time. We went both years we lived in Madison but I'm not sure we've made it back in the last few years.

The current areas definitely always have my attention. I think the most pucker-factor I've had in a canoe was in the narrow spot below the Curtain Falls portage landing. We were just fishing one evening and thought we'd paddle up....we were wrong. I've yet to go over but that was as close as I've felt.

As far as that location specifically...is there just the one portage? I thought I was reading where there was a short one or a long one that was really steep.
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #10 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 1:04am
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Quote:
As far as that location specifically...is there just the one portage? I thought I was reading where there was a short one or a long one that was really steep.


When you head up to the spill out on the right side, you'll see a steep trail that goes straight to the put-in on Russell. The problem there is a poor landing area to get your gear out and room for one canoe at a time at best.

  Much easier to go up as far as you can paddle to a nice flat rock landing area. Room for a couple of canoes there too. You might have to unload one then the other depending on the water level but much better and safer than the little bit shorter/steeper portage.
  
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db
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #11 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 9:54pm
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cyclones30 wrote on Feb 5th, 2020 at 12:30am:
As far as that location specifically...is there just the one portage? I thought I was reading where there was a short one or a long one that was really steep.

There's just the really short one at the top of the outflow as far as I know. The steep one is way down at the other end of the narrows.
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #12 - Feb 5th, 2020 at 10:10pm
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The steep one is way down at the other end of the narrows.


  The INFAMOUS Staircase portage! Shocked Grin Grin
One of those portages you do to say you did it but if you have an option you don't want to ever do again.

  You fall on that steep climb out of Sturgeon Lk you're not going to stop rolling until you hit the water.  Wink Grin Grin

  Russell side is just as steep but it's "terraced" so you have a chance to recoup if you need too.
  
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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #13 - Feb 6th, 2020 at 2:04am
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So the orange circle is stairway portage? It's nowhere near the current area. (White)

One of those 2 campsites would be cool right in the river area.

The purple is what you're calling the narrows? I wasn't sure if that was the narrows or the area between Russell and Sturgeon. Spillway, outflow, narrows, etc.
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #14 - Feb 6th, 2020 at 4:07am
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Yes, the Orange circle is the Staircase Portage. No current there.

  The purple is Sturgeon Narrows, there IS pretty strong current thru there heading West to the Maligne River.

  Those 2 campsites are a possibility you'd have to check out in person or with the Paddle Planner?

   Do you have a CHRISMAR ADVENTURE map? If not get one. It's a smaller scale map of the whole park. Shows the LATEST portage info and is good to use to plan a route. It doesn't show campsites but it's easier to work with for planning than bigger McKenzie/Fisher type maps.

Once you have a route, use the bigger maps and Paddle Planner to mark campsites you might want to stay at.

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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #15 - Feb 6th, 2020 at 4:26am
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Yep, we got a Chrismar a few weeks ago. We do similar strategies for BW trips so we'll be doing it for this one as well I'm sure.
  
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TomT
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #16 - Feb 6th, 2020 at 4:28pm
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I did the stairway portage in 2017 at the end of a long travel day with no lunch.  I was running on empty while setting up on Russell.  I'd do that portage early in the day if you go that route.  Russell is a gorgeous lake although I was there before the fire in 2018.
  
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db
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #17 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 6:11pm
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cyclones30 wrote on Feb 6th, 2020 at 2:04am:
So the orange circle is stairway portage? It's nowhere near the current area. (White)

One of those 2 campsites would be cool right in the river area.

The purple is what you're calling the narrows? I wasn't sure if that was the narrows or the area between Russell and Sturgeon. Spillway, outflow, narrows, etc.

While there is current in the Sturgeon Narrows (purple line), it's not something most people would even notice.

As far as campsites in the outflow go, you will see groups going by AND might be kinda screwing up the plans of folks who would like to fish it for a while.

Where did that map come from?
  
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #18 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 6:58pm
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db wrote on Feb 7th, 2020 at 6:11pm:
Where did that map come from?


Looks like a screen shot of paddle planner
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #19 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 7:05pm
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While there is current in the Sturgeon Narrows (purple line), it's not something most people would even notice.


   I've been thru the Narrows a bunch of times. You don't notice the current because it's so wide and fairly deep thru there.

   Try going against it and stop paddling to take a picture and see how far back it pushes you!  Wink  Huh Grin Grin

  
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Mad_Mat
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #20 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 10:19pm
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"Much easier to go up as far as you can paddle to a nice flat rock landing area."

that works if the water is low - many a time though, I've seen the water washing over that flat rock and it's not possible to land there - just depends on conditions
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #21 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 10:54pm
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Mad_Mat wrote on Feb 7th, 2020 at 10:19pm:
"Much easier to go up as far as you can paddle to a nice flat rock landing area."

that works if the water is low - many a time though, I've seen the water washing over that flat rock and it's not possible to land there - just depends on conditions


  Agreed. The first time I used the portage when I couldn't paddle-up, that flat rock area wasn't even visible.

  I used that steeper portage, which was a pain because there wasn't enough room to unload your gear and pull the canoe out of the water at the same time.

Yup, water levels play a major role in a lot of places.
That's why you always want a Plan B if possible?
  
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #22 - Feb 7th, 2020 at 11:40pm
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I’ve paddled up the Russell river several times over the years, always as a tandem. We haven’t done the Staircase or the short portage but the short portage could be a lift over or lined. If you’re going in late summer or early Fall, water levels should not be an issue. Cool

Good waldos at the top of the outflow in Russell. Also, behind the island at the bottom of the outflow. Cool
  
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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #23 - Feb 8th, 2020 at 1:06am
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PhantomJug wrote on Feb 7th, 2020 at 6:58pm:
db wrote on Feb 7th, 2020 at 6:11pm:
Where did that map come from?


Looks like a screen shot of paddle planner


Yep, I made my scribbles on it.

Thanks everyone for the tips and things to look for!
  
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db
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #24 - Feb 10th, 2020 at 10:26pm
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I found it!

This shot was from the spring trip I couldn't get past the first island in the outflow from Russell to Sturgeon and decided to try the 'you gotta be kidding me' lower portage.
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #25 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 1:08am
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The year I did the infamous Staircase Portage into Russell, I came out through the spill out. Not as bad as this pic, but powerful enough it pushed me 100 yds down the chute like a roller coaster ride.  Shocked Wink Grin Grin
  
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cyclones30
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #26 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 2:26am
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db wrote on Feb 10th, 2020 at 10:26pm:
I found it!

This shot was from the spring trip I couldn't get past the first island in the outflow from Russell to Sturgeon and decided to try the 'you gotta be kidding me' lower portage.
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Is that Chatterton? Unless that's an insanely high water version of Russell to Sturgeon flow...
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #27 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 5:38am
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cyclones30 wrote on Feb 11th, 2020 at 2:26am:
db wrote on Feb 10th, 2020 at 10:26pm:
I found it!

This shot was from the spring trip I couldn't get past the first island in the outflow from Russell to Sturgeon and decided to try the 'you gotta be kidding me' lower portage.
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Is that Chatterton? Unless that's an insanely high water version of Russell to Sturgeon flow...


  This is a great illustration of how water levels mean everything in places like that. That is the outflow to Sturgeon!  Hard to imagine you could ever paddle up there but you can IF the conditions are right.

  I've seen Chatterton falls after heavy winter snowmelt be roaring just like that. The year I took the Staircase was a high water spring. I paddled right over to Chatterton falls. Within a 1/4 mi of the falls the current was so strong, there were whirlpools forming and you couldn't paddle to the base of falls unless you hugged either shoreling. You could hear the falls roaring all the way across the lake.

My FUBAR trip the water level was low, you could easily paddle almost right up to the spill-out. The falls were not roaring but just a low rumble.

High water years you have all that water spilling from the falls that empty into Chatterton down into Russell then out the spillway with tremendous volume and force to then empty into Sturgeon Narrows then west and down the Maligne River. The difference in snowmelt affects all those areas greatly.
  
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #28 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 7:34am
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cyclones30 wrote on Feb 11th, 2020 at 2:26am:
Is that Chatterton? Unless that's an insanely high water version of Russell to Sturgeon flow...

No. Sorry to confuse folks. That's Split Rock Falls. For those that know it, that's how high the water was that spring.
  
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solotripper
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #29 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 3:31pm
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That does look a lot like the spill-out into Sturgeon Narrows, fooled me for sure.

  I've never seen Split Rock like that, but I'd like too.
  
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Re: Narrowing down our route. Sturgeon/Russell area
Reply #30 - Feb 11th, 2020 at 5:43pm
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Lower Basswood Falls on a trip with the highest water I've witnessed.
  
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